Trunyan Village: A Journey into Bali’s Timeless Traditions

Located on the eastern shore of Lake Batur, Trunyan Village stands as a living testament to Bali’s ancient traditions.

This secluded corner of the island offers a rare glimpse into the unique cultural practices of the Bali Aga people, one of Bali’s oldest indigenous groups.

A place full of history and mystery that offers a unique and immersive look into the island’s ancient traditions, making it a must-visit for those eager to experience an authentic slice of Balinese culture.

The journey to Trunyan is an adventure in itself. A three-hour drive from Denpasar transforms into a visual feast as you wind through lush landscapes and marvel at the imposing Mount Batur, often shrouded in mist and clouds.

The dramatic change from the lively, tourist-heavy south of Bali to the serene and traditional north is nothing short of refreshing.

It’s a moment that makes you pause and appreciate how quickly you can slip into a different world.

Discovering the Bali Aga

Trunyan, or Terunyan, is home to the Bali Aga people—Bali’s original inhabitants. Unlike the rest of the island, which was significantly influenced by the Majapahit Empire and modern-day colonisation, the Bali Aga have preserved their ancient ways of life.

Nestled on Lake Batur’s eastern shore, Trunyan is almost magically isolated from contemporary influences, creating a living museum of ancient Balinese culture.

The Intriguing Burial Customs

One of Trunyan’s most striking features is its distinctive approach to death and burial. Instead of the traditional Balinese practice of cremation (Ngaben),

-the people of Trunyan follow a unique ritual: the dead are placed in bamboo coffins and left to decompose naturally under the open sky.

This process takes place at the village’s cemetery, which is a serene spot on the lake’s edge and is guarded by an ancient banyan tree known as the Taru Menyan (Styrax benzoin), or “fragrant tree.”

This sacred tree is believed to absorb the odours of decomposition, keeping the air surprisingly fresh.

A Village Rich in Tradition

Exploring Trunyan is like stepping back in time. The village itself is dotted with traditional homes and a charming temple, which, despite being closed during our visit for renovations, is set to reopen with a grand celebration on Nyepi Day.

The temple’s intricate spider webs and ancient ambiance add to the village’s mystical atmosphere. As you wander through the village, you’ll notice its quiet beauty.

Many residents have moved to more developed areas for work, returning only for important ceremonies, which gives Trunyan a somewhat deserted, yet serene, feel.

The locals are welcoming and eager to share stories about their home, making the visit even more enriching.

The Boat Ride and Beyond

The journey to the burial grounds is a highlight. A short boat ride from the village takes you across the calm waters of Lake Batur to the cemetery.

The boat is piloted by a seasoned 55-year-old captain who, despite his age, navigates the waters with the energy and balance of someone half his age.

The ride offers breathtaking views of the lush caldera walls and the tranquil lake—imagine a freshwater version of ‘James Bond Island,’ or even ‘Skull Island’ in this context.

Exploring the Sacred Grounds

Upon arriving at the cemetery, you’ll encounter a fascinating and respectful approach to death. Bodies are placed in open-air bamboo coffins, and you’ll see a collection of skulls and other remains.

This may seem unusual, but it’s all part of the Bali Aga belief system. Here, only married individuals are buried in the sacred grounds; those who are unmarried or who die in accidents are not included in this special burial site.

Grave goods, such as personal items and food, are placed with the deceased to aid their journey into the afterlife, much like the ancient Egyptians.

You’ll see bowls, coins, snacks, and even personal hygiene products among the offerings. The sight of these items, along with the visible remains, paints a vivid picture of the Bali Aga’s unique spiritual practices.

Visiting Trunyan is more than just a cultural outing; it’s a deep dive into a world where ancient beliefs and practices still hold sway.

The tranquillity of the burial grounds, combined with the beauty of the lake and the warmth of the local people, creates an experience that is both moving and memorable.

Tips for a Memorable Visit

• Hire a Guide: To fully appreciate Trunyan’s rich cultural heritage, consider hiring a local guide. This will ensure you gain a deeper understanding of the village’s traditions and have access to both the village and the burial grounds.
• Respect Local Customs: Be mindful of local customs and traditions, particularly when visiting sacred sites.
• Wear Comfortable Footwear: Since you’ll be exploring both the village and its natural surroundings, comfortable shoes are a must.

In essence, Trunyan Village offers a rare and captivating glimpse into Bali’s ancient traditions, where the past and present coexist in harmony.

Whether you’re exploring the sacred burial grounds, admiring the stunning lake views, or engaging with the local community, Trunyan promises an unforgettable experience that will stay with you long after your visit.